- Name:
Bee Shrimp
- Family: Atyidae
- Species: Shrimp
- Scientific Name: Caridina sp
General info about Bee Shrimp
The Bee Shrimp is an attractive variety of the extremely popular Red Crystal Shrimp. In fact, they are the shrimp from which Black Crystal shrimp and Red Crystal Shrimp are bred. This ornamental shrimp boasts a sophisticated black and white color pattern that is a marked departure from its vibrant red cousin. While their coloration may seem like day and night, the Bee Shrimp is the "original" or natural color form and the Red Crystal Shrimp, a red color mutation. The elegant mottling of black and white coloration is subtle yet immediately distinguishes the Bee Shrimp as a striking addition to an ornamental shrimp setup or a peaceful freshwater system.
Bee shrimp have a lifespan of about 18 months. They are generally easier to care for and breed due to their lower sensitivity to aquarium conditions. Thus, these are better suited for beginners who are newly entering the dwarf shrimp hobby. As with all dwarf shrimp, a colony of Bee Shrimp works as a very effective cleaning crew for your aquarium, as they feed on algae and waste.
The Bee Shrimp requires an established freshwater aquarium of at least 10 gallons. The Bee Shrimp needs plenty of hiding places, sufficient amounts of algae on which to feed and a mature substrate. The Bee Shrimp may be housed with small peaceful fish. However, the Bee Shrimp is easier to care for and best observed when housed in its very own aquarium.
Shrimp, in general, require very clean water, as they’re far more sensitive to toxins than fish. The bioload in the tank should accordingly be kept low, which is not as difficult as it may sound since shrimp have a low impact on bioload. Only the smallest of fish, such as Otocinclus spp. catfish or least killifish (Heterandria formosa), are suitable as tankmates. For breeding purposes, however, shrimp should be kept in species tanks.
Since they are typically prey animals, the bee shrimp like to have readily available hiding places. The addition of live plants provides shelter and helps remove ammonia from the water. Low-light aquatic mosses, such as Java moss, are wonderful additions to shrimp tanks. Another source of shelter the shrimp enjoy is cholla wood, the dried-out husks of the cholla cactus (often sold in pet stores for use with hermit crabs).
There is a general consensus among shrimp breeders that bee shrimp need cooler waters that do not exceed approximately 74°F. This is more or less true. Bee shrimp do thrive in cooler temperatures, but their failure to thrive in warmer environments most likely has just as much to do with oxygen saturation as the heat itself. Oxygen dissolves much better in cool water, and bee shrimp need well-oxygenated water. Keeping them in temperatures above 76˚ will require the addition of an extra airstone or air-operated filter. Even so, it’s not a good idea to keep them in temperatures above 78˚. As such, a heater is unnecessary in all but the coldest environments.
Temperature aside, bee shrimp also like their water soft and just slightly acidic, with a pH of 6.5 or so. Many breeders use reverse osmosis (RO) water to give the shrimp an ideal environment. However, pure RO water is deficient in minerals (particularly calcium) that are vital to shrimp exoskeletons. The addition of a mineral rock or a shrimp-specific GH booster will help replace the missing minerals without adding more than what is necessary. Another option is using a partial mix of RO and tap water. A GH of 4–6 with a carbonate hardness of approximately 2 is ideal.
Bee Shrimp Diet & Nutrition
The Bee Shrimp is an omnivore that consumes algae, detritus, leftover food. If insufficient food is present, supplement with a quality flake food or shrimp pellets.
Determining Sex of Bee Shrimp
Females tend to grow slightly larger than the males. Mature females have a rounded abdomen and can often be seen carrying eggs.
Breeding & Spawning Bee Shrimp
Assuming both sexes of shrimp are present when the female has just molted and is fertile, she produces pheromones that cause the male shrimp to swim in frenzied circuits around the tank, seeking her out. During this time swimming activity can be quite vigorous as males search for the females. After their eggs are laid and fertilized, the females carefully stick them to their pleopods (swimmerets), located on the underside of the tail. A female with fertile eggs is referred to as “berried” due to the berry-like appearance of the egg clusters. The female proceeds to carry the eggs for the next month, diligently fanning her swimmerets to ensure a flow of oxygenated water, until they hatch.
The eggs hatch to reveal tiny versions of the adult shrimp. The newly born shrimp will look like miniature adult shrimp and will eat the same thing as the adults. If breeding these shrimp, it is important to keep them in a breeder aquarium with a sponge filter. This added precaution helps maximize survival of young shrimp. Combined with clean water and ample food, a high survival rate is not difficult to achieve.
Under ideal conditions, the Bee Shrimp will most likely breed in your aquarium if there are a male and female. The female Bee Shrimp will carry the eggs under her tail until they hatch in about 30 days. The duration the female carries the eggs before they hatch is linked to water temperature. At 71 ° F, the expected hatching time is 28 days. At 75-77 °F the shrimp develop the strongest colors. Extended high water temperatures result in higher juvenile and adult mortality, and less egg survivability. Warmer water will bring invertebrates to sexual maturity earlier but with a smaller body size than cold water. A cold water environment will slow down invertebrate sexual maturity; consequently, the shrimp have longer to grow, have a larger body size at sexual maturity than if they had been brought up in warmer water.
Since adult bee shrimp do not bother their babies, they can be kept together and also a species-only tank ensures a lack of predation on the shrimplets.
Bee Shrimp Origin
The original wild form is known from China, Hong Kong, and possibly northern Vietnam.
Native to the swamps and streams of Japan and Asia
Caution with Bee Shrimp
Be extremely careful if using CO2 injection on planted aquaria containing these shrimps, as they will not cope with swings in pH.
Like all invertebrates, the Bee Shrimp is sensitive to copper. Copper-based medications should never be used in aquariums housing ornamental invertebrates. Do not house the Bee Shrimp in aquariums with loaches, puffers, and other larger carnivores that will feed on invertebrates.
Original Detail
| Name | Species | Family | Scientific Name | More Detail | Added by |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bee Shrimp | Shrimp | Atyidae | Caridina sp | The Bee Shrimp is an attractive variety of the extremely popular Red Crystal Shrimp. In fact, they are the shrimp from which Black Crystal shrimp and Red Crystal Shrimp are bred. This ornamental shrimp boasts a sophisticated black and white color pattern that is a marked departure from its vibrant red cousin. While their coloration may seem like day and night, the Bee Shrimp is the "original" or natural color form and the Red Crystal Shrimp, a red color mutation. The elegant mottling of black and white coloration is subtle yet immediately distinguishes the Bee Shrimp as a striking addition to an ornamental shrimp setup or a peaceful freshwater system. Bee shrimp have a lifespan of about 18 months. They are generally easier to care for and breed due to their lower sensitivity to aquarium conditions. Thus, these are better suited for beginners who are newly entering the dwarf shrimp hobby. As with all dwarf shrimp, a colony of Bee Shrimp works as a very effective cleaning crew for your aquarium, as they feed on algae and waste. The Bee Shrimp requires an established freshwater aquarium of at least 10 gallons. The Bee Shrimp needs plenty of hiding places, sufficient amounts of algae on which to feed and a mature substrate. The Bee Shrimp may be housed with small peaceful fish. However, the Bee Shrimp is easier to care for and best observed when housed in its very own aquarium. Shrimp, in general, require very clean water, as they’re far more sensitive to toxins than fish. The bioload in the tank should accordingly be kept low, which is not as difficult as it may sound since shrimp have a low impact on bioload. Only the smallest of fish, such as Otocinclus spp. catfish or least killifish (Heterandria formosa), are suitable as tankmates. For breeding purposes, however, shrimp should be kept in species tanks. Since they are typically prey animals, the bee shrimp like to have readily available hiding places. The addition of live plants provides shelter and helps remove ammonia from the water. Low-light aquatic mosses, such as Java moss, are wonderful additions to shrimp tanks. Another source of shelter the shrimp enjoy is cholla wood, the dried-out husks of the cholla cactus (often sold in pet stores for use with hermit crabs). There is a general consensus among shrimp breeders that bee shrimp need cooler waters that do not exceed approximately 74°F. This is more or less true. Bee shrimp do thrive in cooler temperatures, but their failure to thrive in warmer environments most likely has just as much to do with oxygen saturation as the heat itself. Oxygen dissolves much better in cool water, and bee shrimp need well-oxygenated water. Keeping them in temperatures above 76˚ will require the addition of an extra airstone or air-operated filter. Even so, it’s not a good idea to keep them in temperatures above 78˚. As such, a heater is unnecessary in all but the coldest environments. Temperature aside, bee shrimp also like their water soft and just slightly acidic, with a pH of 6.5 or so. Many breeders use reverse osmosis (RO) water to give the shrimp an ideal environment. However, pure RO water is deficient in minerals (particularly calcium) that are vital to shrimp exoskeletons. The addition of a mineral rock or a shrimp-specific GH booster will help replace the missing minerals without adding more than what is necessary. Another option is using a partial mix of RO and tap water. A GH of 4–6 with a carbonate hardness of approximately 2 is ideal. |
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