- Name:
Nerita Snail, Oilve
- Family: Neritidae
- Species: Snail
- Scientific Name: Neritina sp
General info about Nerita Snail, Oilve
Nerite Snails are among the most popular freshwater aquarium snails due to its reputation for being outstanding tank cleaners and one of the most proficient algae eating snails around. That’s why Nerite Snails are frequently referred to as members of an aquarium cleaning crew along with Amano Shrimp. Nerite Snails can be described as being docile, peaceful and tranquil in temperament, and are able to move throughout the tank with ease. Nerites are often sold as freshwater aquarium snails, although there are some saltwater varieties as well.
The olive name come from its deep green color. They have an attractive shell of marble-sized olive to brownish-green coloration, which is often colonized by tiny barnacles, adding to its interesting appearance. Nerite Snails size depends on the age and type of the snail. Snails grow as they age so the older the snail is they larger it will be. Olive Nerite Snail Grows around 1/2 - 1 inch. Other Nerites can grow larger than Olive Nerite snail with the Tiger Nerite and Zebra Nerite being close to twice as large as the Olive Nerite.
The Nerite Snail lifespan is about one year. If a Nerite dies soon after being added to a tank it can be due to the stress of being transported, a significant shift in water parameters, or unhealthy water in the tank. Before adding snails to the tank, it may be a good idea to test both the tank water as well as a sample of the water that the snail is being transported in for pH, Ammonia, Nitrates, and Hardness. It’s better to know in advance whether there is a significant variance in parameters.
This snail is a great algae eater. Generally will not touch plants and will eat most types of algae. They are a popular choice for keeping uneaten food and algae in check, while at the same time it will not unexpectedly overpopulate your aquarium since the Olive Nerite Snail cannot be bred in freshwater. In order to reproduce, the Olive Nerite Snail requires brackish water as it has a marine larval stage, with adult snails living for about 1-2 years under proper conditions.
Its a misconception to think that Nerite Snails will “eat away” algae problems in an aquarium. Algae problems are related to lighting issues and water conditions. If a tank has algae problems, adding some Nerites is not the best solution. Instead, determining the root cause of the algae problem is necessary. Once identified, properly addressing the issues is the best way to control algae.
They are a very hardy snail, able to adapt to both brackish water and fresh water. All snails need to be introduced to a tank that has been well established. This one needs a spacious well-oxygenated tank with plenty of algae to eat. Once you have them in an established tank and offer them a varied diet. If put in a new tank with no algae present and not supplemented, it can starve.
As mentioned above, Nerite Snails seem to enjoy being in an established planted aquarium. In an established planted tank, the water parameters have been given a chance to settle into a stable range and the tank has properly cycled. Also, the live aquarium plants continuously shed or discard plant matter into the water column, preventing the tank from ever being “too clean”. Nerites seem to be happy and content in tanks that are never “too clean”.
They are as resilient to a wide variety of environmental conditions as they are used to frequent habitat changes, doing well at temperatures ranging from the 50’s to the upper 80’s Fahrenheit and in waters of 6.3-8.4 in pH. However, they seem to like water temperature in the tropical community tank range of 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit and pH on the alkaline side between 7.5 - 8 and aquarium water on the hard side with a moderately moving current. Make sure pH isn't too acidic and water isn't too soft, or the shell will dissolve and the snail will die. Hardness should be between 5-15 Dkh. Nerite Snails may need Calcium supplements to maintain a healthy shell.
Nerites produce waste like other living organisms. They will increase the bio-load and they will tax the aquatic environment like other inhabitants in the tank. So be sure not to cause an overstocking by considering this snail as small. 20 gallon planted aquarium, or larger will perfectly fit for olive nerites. Also, a 10-gallon aquarium can be good so long as the limitations of 10-gallon aquariums are kept in mind: low water volume, low surface area, and a slim margin of error for water temperature shifts, and the like.
They are considered a tidal snail and because of this will sometimes escape your tank, especially if you don’t have a lid. A tight fitting lid is a must. Keep an eye on your Olive Nerite Snails so you can find them quickly if they get out of the tank. Often, placing them back in, right side up can rehydrate them and keep them alive.
An interesting thing about Nerite Snails is that when they are in feeding mode, they are constantly on the go, moving steadily and tirelessly throughout the tank. Then, for no apparent reason, they become idle and still for long periods of time. When this happens, they may be out in the open on a hard leaf, on the glass, or on a filter intake, for instance. Or they may find a dark, quiet corner of the tank near the surface and stay there motionless for days.
Nerita Snail, Oilve Diet & Nutrition
The Olive Nerite Snail is a substrate and plant scavenger that will consume debris, uneaten food, and algae in the pond or aquarium. They affix themselves to hard surfaces such as glass, decorations, filter intakes, and hard plant leaves. Nerites move easily across these surfaces…eating as they move. This snail is a great algae eater. Generally will not touch plants and will eat most types of algae. If insufficient food is present, supplement with a quality vegetable based wafer or pellet food. They will also readily accept fresh vegetables (squash or lettuce), but if fresh vegetables are used it is important to remove the uneaten vegetable after a few days so that it does not rot. In addition to this, Olive Nerite Snails need calcium supplements so that they have strong, correctly formed shells.
Breeding & Spawning Nerita Snail, Oilve
Other than the many species of snails that can overrun a tank, many hobbyists choose nerites because of their inability to populate. It is very rare for the Olive Nerite Snails to breed in freshwater. They may lay eggs but they will not hatch, as the young need brackish, and or saltwater conditions due to the fact that larvae need the saltwater's calcium and minerals to build up their shells; for that reason, you will have the most success rearing them in full-blown marine saltwater, and the adults can make residence in brackish, and marine setups.
Nerita Snail, Oilve Origin
The Olive Nerite Snail originates from the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean and can be found in the lower regions of rivers where they meet coastal marine waters.
Caution with Nerita Snail, Oilve
As with other snails in a tank, Nerite Snail care must also include checking for Ammonia spikes and high levels of Nitrate, as Nerites are susceptible. Levels of nitrites and ammonia that can quickly cause high mortality rates. Care must also be taken to avoid any sort of exposure to copper and other medications because this can be fatal to snails. Copper can be inside the many fertilizer and medications so make sure to read labels.
If a Nerite Snail dies, be sure to remove it from the tank right away because a decomposing snail can cause an Ammonia spike in the aquarium water. A dead snail will not be affixed to the glass or any hard surface. Instead, a dead snail will usually be lying on the bottom of the tank, sometimes upside down and motionless. Upon removal from the tank, a dead snail may have a strong smell of rotting and decomposing flesh. Never release your snails into the sewer system or bodies to the water as they can be harmful to other ecosystems.
Acclimating Nerita Snail, Oilve
Avoid dropping Nerite Snails into the water and letting them float to the bottom to land in various random positions. Lucky Nerites will land upright and be able to quickly get acclimated to their new surroundings. The unlucky snails will upside down. Nerite Snails have time turning themselves over to the upright position. In most cases, it is almost impossible for them to right themselves. Nerites left upside down can die that way. Make sure Nerites are placed in the tank in the upright position so they get off to a good start.
Original Detail
Name | Species | Family | Scientific Name | More Detail | Added by |
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Nerita Snail, Oilve | Snail | Neritidae | Neritina sp | Nerite Snails are among the most popular freshwater aquarium snails due to its reputation for being outstanding tank cleaners and one of the most proficient algae eating snails around. That’s why Nerite Snails are frequently referred to as members of an aquarium cleaning crew along with Amano Shrimp. Nerite Snails can be described as being docile, peaceful and tranquil in temperament, and are able to move throughout the tank with ease. Nerites are often sold as freshwater aquarium snails, although there are some saltwater varieties as well. The olive name come from its deep green color. They have an attractive shell of marble-sized olive to brownish-green coloration, which is often colonized by tiny barnacles, adding to its interesting appearance. Nerite Snails size depends on the age and type of the snail. Snails grow as they age so the older the snail is they larger it will be. Olive Nerite Snail Grows around 1/2 - 1 inch. Other Nerites can grow larger than Olive Nerite snail with the Tiger Nerite and Zebra Nerite being close to twice as large as the Olive Nerite. The Nerite Snail lifespan is about one year. If a Nerite dies soon after being added to a tank it can be due to the stress of being transported, a significant shift in water parameters, or unhealthy water in the tank. Before adding snails to the tank, it may be a good idea to test both the tank water as well as a sample of the water that the snail is being transported in for pH, Ammonia, Nitrates, and Hardness. It’s better to know in advance whether there is a significant variance in parameters. This snail is a great algae eater. Generally will not touch plants and will eat most types of algae. They are a popular choice for keeping uneaten food and algae in check, while at the same time it will not unexpectedly overpopulate your aquarium since the Olive Nerite Snail cannot be bred in freshwater. In order to reproduce, the Olive Nerite Snail requires brackish water as it has a marine larval stage, with adult snails living for about 1-2 years under proper conditions. Its a misconception to think that Nerite Snails will “eat away” algae problems in an aquarium. Algae problems are related to lighting issues and water conditions. If a tank has algae problems, adding some Nerites is not the best solution. Instead, determining the root cause of the algae problem is necessary. Once identified, properly addressing the issues is the best way to control algae. They are a very hardy snail, able to adapt to both brackish water and fresh water. All snails need to be introduced to a tank that has been well established. This one needs a spacious well-oxygenated tank with plenty of algae to eat. Once you have them in an established tank and offer them a varied diet. If put in a new tank with no algae present and not supplemented, it can starve. As mentioned above, Nerite Snails seem to enjoy being in an established planted aquarium. In an established planted tank, the water parameters have been given a chance to settle into a stable range and the tank has properly cycled. Also, the live aquarium plants continuously shed or discard plant matter into the water column, preventing the tank from ever being “too clean”. Nerites seem to be happy and content in tanks that are never “too clean”. They are as resilient to a wide variety of environmental conditions as they are used to frequent habitat changes, doing well at temperatures ranging from the 50’s to the upper 80’s Fahrenheit and in waters of 6.3-8.4 in pH. However, they seem to like water temperature in the tropical community tank range of 72 – 78 degrees Fahrenheit and pH on the alkaline side between 7.5 - 8 and aquarium water on the hard side with a moderately moving current. Make sure pH isn't too acidic and water isn't too soft, or the shell will dissolve and the snail will die. Hardness should be between 5-15 Dkh. Nerite Snails may need Calcium supplements to maintain a healthy shell. Nerites produce waste like other living organisms. They will increase the bio-load and they will tax the aquatic environment like other inhabitants in the tank. So be sure not to cause an overstocking by considering this snail as small. 20 gallon planted aquarium, or larger will perfectly fit for olive nerites. Also, a 10-gallon aquarium can be good so long as the limitations of 10-gallon aquariums are kept in mind: low water volume, low surface area, and a slim margin of error for water temperature shifts, and the like. They are considered a tidal snail and because of this will sometimes escape your tank, especially if you don’t have a lid. A tight fitting lid is a must. Keep an eye on your Olive Nerite Snails so you can find them quickly if they get out of the tank. Often, placing them back in, right side up can rehydrate them and keep them alive. An interesting thing about Nerite Snails is that when they are in feeding mode, they are constantly on the go, moving steadily and tirelessly throughout the tank. Then, for no apparent reason, they become idle and still for long periods of time. When this happens, they may be out in the open on a hard leaf, on the glass, or on a filter intake, for instance. Or they may find a dark, quiet corner of the tank near the surface and stay there motionless for days. |
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